Hook: Daiichi Klinkhamar, 1160 or 1167, #12-#14
Thread: MFC 8/0 or UTC 70, Black
Rib#1: Small Black V-Rib
Rib #2: Fine Red Wire
Body: Holographic Red Mylar
Wingcase: Pearlescent Mylar
Thorax: Peacock Herl
Wing Pads: Orange Super Floss
Legs: Pheasant Tail Diamond Angel Hair
Gills: UV2 Sparkle Yarn or Uni-Stretch Floss, White
Tying Note: Vary the body material, V-Rib and Wire Colors to imitate other pupal colors.
Muddy bottomed algae rich lakes dot the western reaches of North American. Trout within these waters grow at an alarming pace on a diet rich in scuds, damsels, dragon, leeches and of course chironomids. Chironomid species within these bodies of water tend to be larger than their cousins who inhabit the clear marl and chara type lakes. Typical size ranges run from 3/8ths of an inch to an inch. The pupae and adults from the larger species have been christened "bombers" by many anglers. Pupal patterns from these larger species afford plenty of room for imitation and the early season bomber was designed with this in mind. Despite this pattern’s moniker some of the best "bomber" opportunities occur during the high heat of summer. Using a floating line and a leader at least 25% longer than the depth of water being plied make a cast and allow the natural wind drift to swing the pattern astern. Hang on, as takes to these larger patterns are not always subtle.
1) Cover the hook shank with tying thread. Return the thread to the hook eye area. Tie in the wire rib along the near side of the shank into the bend. Return the tying thread to the original tie in area.
2) Tie in a length of black V-Rib on top of the shank just back from the hook eye. Make sure the flat side of the V-Rib faces up. Secure the V-Rib down the hook shank into the bend. Pull and stretch the V-Rib as you are tying it down the shank to reduce bulk. Rubbing the V-Rib with your fingers helps stretch it.
3) Tie in a length of red holographic Mylar at the rear of shank. Advance the tying thread forward so it hangs near the hook eye. Wrap the Mylar forward in close touching turns to the tying thread. Tie off and trim the excess.
4) Wind the V-Rib forward over the body so the rounded side of the material faces out. Pull on the V-Rib to reduce bulk. Tie off the V-Rib and trim the excess. Wind the wire rib forward over the Mylar body so each wrap lies along the back side of the V-Rib. Tie off the excess wire and using a pulling and twisting motion break away the excess. Move the tying thread so it hangs at the hook eye.
5) Tie in a 1-inch strand of gill material at the hook eye so the majority of it protrudes forward in front of the hook eye. Trim off any material trailing back from the tie in point. Cover the tie in point with tying thread.
6) Tie in the pearlescent Mylar wingcase about 1/4 of the shank length back from the hook eye. Secure a loop of orange Super Stretch Floss just back from the hook eye along each side of the shank. Bind the Super Stretch Floss back to where the pearlescent Mylar wingcase was tied in. Pull on the Super Stretch Floss when securing back to reduce bulk.
7) Tie in a single strand of peacock herl and wind forward to form the thorax.
8) Pull the pearlescent Mylar wingcase over the thorax and tie off with a minimum of wraps just behind the hook eye and gills. Pull the Stretch Floss along each side of the thorax to form the wingpads. Tie off and trim the excess. Be careful not to pull too tight on the Stretch Floss to avoid the wingpads from pulling out from the tying thread.
9) Double a sparse clump of pheasant tail Angel Hair around the tying thread and slide into position just back from the hook eye on the underside of the shank. Form a sparse beard by pulling the Angel Hair back under the hook shank and securing it in place. Build a neat head, apply head cement and remove the tying thread. Trim the Angel Hair beard slightly longer than the finished thorax.